Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Nigeria!

Here I am in Nigeria! It feels crazy to me that just last year, I was learning about Nigeria in school never thinking I'd actually be here a year later. Good thing I listened in class ;)

Actually, what I remember the best from AP Comparative Government and Politics are the pidgin English sayings taught by my teacher, Mr. Hauck, to all his students regardless of what class they were in. And that is what has been the most useful! No Wahala, How you dey o?, On what level now? Etc... People appreciate it when you try and connect with them in their own language, even if it's extremely limited. I know I appreciate when people try to speak English!

We crossed the border into Nigeria about 5 days ago. We bush camped for 3 nights in Nigeria after bush camping a long time through Benin. So we were running rather low on water in our Jerry Cans. The roads we were taking were less travelled so there were no police checks (the road the truck in front of us took went through 60 checks in 1 day!) but it was also in much worse condition. No other trucks hauling goods would have been able to take this road. Only local cars and motor bikes.




This is one of the better roads. The really bad ones are too bumpy to take pictures.


After driving without seeing anything for a long time, we stopped at a small village. It was the only one for miles and miles and miles. When the big yellow truck stopped people were very curious. Then Nancy and Steve got out to see if we could fill a few Jerry cans from their well. They got permission and then the rest of us on the truck got out. The people in the village were surprised to see 19 white people pile out of a truck in their village!

By then, we had quite a crowd. People in the village (I wish I knew the name, there were no signs) were so welcoming. Only a couple of the men spoke a bit of English but that didn't stop everyone from greeting us and smiling. The children were thrilled when I brought out a camera to take a picture of the well and insisted that we took their photos so that they could see their own picture. They would stare down the camera even though I tried to get them to smile as the picture was taken. As soon as they saw themselves and each other in my camera's frame, they broke out in giggles, pointing and smiling. Then they wanted another and another. A picture alone, with a friend, with two friends, with a dozen friends.

They were so cute. And I think we caught them celebrating something because the girls were so dressed up with painted faces and jewels glued on their face and arms and hands.

Here are a few of the photos:




As I first bring out the camera











This guy brought out his musical instrument and was plucking away, singing and dancing




"How close to the lens can we get..." How about that expression on the left?









All these girls were so beautiful!




Still not quite sure how this camera thing works...




The little guy on the very left was little cheeky but super happy and adorable. He tried to pop into every photo he could!









My little friend again and the well pump to his right.





It took hardly any time to fill up the jerry cans but we stayed for about half an hour. When it became clear we had to leave it was sad, I wanted to stay a bit longer! People, kids and adults, had been stroking my hair and skin before but it now that we were leaving I was being petted like nothing else. I had trouble making to the truck! I shook hands with the few men and women who were watching a bit distrustfully from the sidelines and got smiles in return. After boarding Nala, I waved out the window back to the men, women, and children waving at me.




Waving before putting up the truck stairs. Good bye!



Good bye!


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Getting a Bit Freindly...

So there I was in a Python Voodoo Temple- you know, same ol' same old. I was with Wendy, Michael, Anna, Ben and Lauren. Since we were in Benin, the guide for the temple only spoke French and I somehow turned into a makeshift translator for every one else (and two German girls) because no one else spoke French. I was glad to find my French skills have improved a lot over this trip!




Our guide (see the traditional markings like snake bites on his face)




Me translating


Before we went into the actual temple our guide put snakes all over us. So cool!


This one snake got a bit friendly and tried to go down my shirt. I of course made a ridiculous face in response (thanks Anna M. for the picture!)




So I kissed the python





Walking into the temple, there must have been thirty pythons in there. Some were small and some were huge (we had the small ones around our neck).









Anna makes a friend :)

Our guide explained that you can only ask good things of the voodoo spirits here. If you ask for bad things, bad things will happen to you!

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Who Do Voodoo?

Going through Togo and Benin, I could definitely sense strong influences of the traditional religions, mainly voodoo.

I learned a lot of things about the religions of the people in these countries. For instance, Animism (voodoo), Islam and Christianity are the three biggest beliefs. But many people who are Christian still believe in and practice voodoo. But no voodoo has been mixed with Islam. This is because when missionaries came through western Africa, they had to compromise with the indigenous people's beliefs to get them to listen to the gospel. Interesting, huh?

In Benin, I went to a village that practiced Christianity and voodoo. We took a canoe to get there.

Matthias, our guide showed us some of the ways the local people catch fish, crabs, and shrimp. Matthias said he is a Christian and practices voodoo as well.



Matthias and a fishing basket



And a fish!

We took a little tour of the little village. Every so often, there would be a sacrificing area in which a voodoo spirit lived. What one does is make a request and promise a gift to the spirit for said request. When your request has been answered one must give the gift (a sacrifice, usually a chicken or goat) to the voodoo spirit by spilling the blood on the altar. The people then use the rest of the animal (the meat and hide).







An alter with a huge *ahem* "man part" sticking out.




He looks friendly

In the picture above, the stains on the spirit are years of blood from the sacrificial animals. I went in there. Imagine the smell...

We attended a voodoo "ceremony" as well. I say "ceremony" in quotes because the voodoo priest (the older gentleman in the red) comes out with this voodoo decorated bottle which looked legit. However, he then proceeds to fill the thing with whiskey from another bottle (which I could smell from 10 feet away) and a bit of burned plants to make his magical concoction.










The priest had some, the priest's assistant had some and then offered it to us. A few people were brave enough to try.





Kaye about to drink voodoo mix




Jakob drinking

Then after everyone who wanted a shot had a shot, the priest and his assistant pretty much downed the 2/3rds of the bottle that was left. I'm sure they felt very magical after that!

In the village, people were just going about their daily lives:




Bath time!




Older lady and her goats




House




A unhappy baby (Don't worry, mom came and scooped her up right after this picture was taken. Baby turned happy!)

It was almost sunset when we left. We got complimentary coconuts and drank the milk and ate the flesh on our canoe ride back.


- Sent from Africa using my iPad

Welcome!

We have new comers to our group! Actually, they have been with us since Ghana but I haven't written since then so welcome Ben, Lauren, Vanessa, Liam, Jakob, Christine, and Wendy :) I'm very happy that y'all joined this trip!


- Sent from Africa using my iPad

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

God Is Most Merciful Bike Repairs

One of the first things I noticed when we crossed into Ghana are the signs and names of the stores. Most every store, shop and stall has some kind of Biblical name. For instance:


But seek first the kingdom of God construction works

Some of my favorites have been:

He is risen fast food
Say your prayers beauty salon
God is most merciful bike repairs
And He shall be worshipped furniture
Jesus died for you cleaning supplies
Steps to Christ used books
Walk with faith tyres

Cars, buses, and taxis also all have pictures of sayings about God and Jesus...




This taxi is less decorated than most...

Soon we are leaving Ghana, an english speaking country, and crossing the border into Togo then Benin, both French speaking countries. After those two, we head on to Nigeria!

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Hot

It is now properly hot.

Hot hot hot.

And not only hot, but very humid and sticky too. We've been at the beach at different points but when the sea breeze isn't blowing, it gets icky. I reckon it averages 90 f degrees plus humidity.

Luckily we've spent a total of about 10 days at the beach (different beaches though). Almost everyone of them I've spent 3 or 4 hours in the water and waves. I love the ocean here!

Our latest beach resort was the Green Turtle Lodge, an eco-friendly place. And unlike most other beaches, there was no garbage in the water or on the beach. We stayed there while waiting for our Nigerian visas.

Before that, there was Abanze, a little village with a good resort and great waves. At Abanze we said goodbye to three of our fellow passengers, Jaquie, Geoff, and Eti.




Green Turtle Lodge bar




Beach!




Waves!






Coconut trees are everywhere and we got kids holding machetes often asking us if we want a coconut.


Coconut?



A woman walking from the village



Down the beach from the Green Turtle is a little village.



The village is a 10 minute walk down the beach

With the Green Turtle, the village offers a tour through the saltwater lagoons in a dugout wood canoe. We saw crabs climbing trees, birds, fish, and the biggest spider I have even seen. It was as big as my hand and black and bright yellow. AND our guide said that is one of the small spiders. I shudder to think of them...

But from a distance I admit it was very cool.

The experience in general was so peaceful, paddling and gliding through the water even though our canoe was rather rocky and felt like we would tip at any moment. But we didn't!


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Canopy Walk

Awaaba (ah-kwa-ahba) means welcome. Welcome to Kakum National Park, home of the rainforest canopy walk.




The canopy walk started with a half hour walk uphill and into the forest to the top point of the rain forest.






We climbed up to the start and began to walk among the tree tops!





The path felt rickety but our guide assured us each length of walkway could hold three elephants!



Don't look down...




I walked there!








Dave coming across



No monkeys were sighted but there was a quick glimpse of a snake, various lizards, birds, butterflies, and other bugs.


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